Most surfers drop in and race as fast as they can down the line, mid face, and never set anything up.
You have to take off, go straight to the bottom and hold your bottom turn all the way up top and try hit the lip and utilise the whole of the wave face rather than just surf the middle of the wave.
A skateboarder drops into a ramp, take about two to three seconds to get to the bottom and another two to three seconds to pump up to the top before doing a big twist. In comparison most surfers tend to sit mid face and try to fabricate a mid face turn and it comes across as being uncoordinated with bad arms, not looking where they are going and looking very flat and lateral. So use the whole wave face!